Literary Itinerary: Óbidos, Portugal is a City Made for Book Lovers
An hour bus ride from the capital city of Lisbon, there is a tiny, medieval town that lies on the silver coast of Portugal. With only about 3000 permanent residents, Óbidos, is a true literary city that offers a bevy of bookstores, book festivals, and even the world’s largest book hotel. I recently spent two days in this lovely town, and I created this literary itinerary to showcase the best of bookish Óbidos.
How Óbidos Became an Official UNESCO Literary City
Welcome to Óbidos, an official UNESCO Literary City.
Like many small towns in Portugal, Obidos is a white town with gorgeous cerulean blue accents. Terraced houses with colorful wooden doors, and intricate brass door knockers, are nestled into the steep mountains, with narrow cobble stone streets providing mildly treacherous pathways between locales. The entire city sits inside a massive fortress wall built by the Moors and that wall is now walkable and offers incredible views of the city and the world beyond.
However, by the year 2013, Óbidos was a village in desperate need of revitalization. One man, José Pinho, a literary innovator and entrepreneur, had been tasked with transforming one of Óbidos’ impressive church’s into a bookstore, but he saw a bigger opportunity. He said he would only take on the project, if the village would commit to transforming other neglected spaces into bookstores as well. And so began Óbidos’ transformation. In addition to the church, the town’s green market and a former winery were also converted into bookstores. And then, in 2015, a former convent, built in the 1800s was converted not into another bookstore, but a book hotel, and not just any hotel, but the largest book hotel in the world. That same year, village officials, in consultation with Pinho, launched the Folio International Literary festival bringing international writers and the readers who love them, to Óbidos. Word got out and later in 2015, Óbidos was officially declared a Literary City by UNESCO, a title shared by only 42 other cities worldwide. Óbidos’ fame as a literary attraction continued to grow over the years, but sadly, the man who really was the innovator behind the literary scene in the village, José Pinho, died of cancer earlier this year.
The Official Óbidos Literary Itinerary
Like many small towns the world over, there is one main street in Óbidos, and Rua Direita is that street. It runs through the entire town and is relatively flat, although cobblestoned, so be aware if you have mobility issues. If you only have a couple of hours to see literary Obidos, a stroll down Rua Direita will bring you up close and personal to the majority of the bookshops and book themed stores. Plus, you’ll see tons of cute, tourist-friendly shops where you’ll find an abundance of canned sardines, beautiful hand-painted tiles, decadent chocolates, and bottles upon bottles of the region’s famous cherry liqueur, known as ginja.
Three Bookstores and a Library
Right outside the main gates of Óbidos, just steps from the official tourism office is a traditonal-looking, white, two-story building with a rustic sign that reads, Livros/Books. It’s the perfect welcome to a literary city. But it’s not a bookstore, it’s a book exchange run by a group of expat volunteers called the Silver Coast Volunteers. Visitors can drop off books, borrow books, or just take one from the sizable selection of used, mostly paperback books. Most of the collection, which numbers over 1,000 books, is in English, but there are some shelves stocked with books in other European languages as well.
The Market Bookshop
Walking down the main commercial street, Rua Direita, the first bookstore we come to is the Livraria do Mercado (The Market Bookstore) which literally is combination of fresh market and bookstore! Patrons can buy fresh fruits and vegetables, herbs, spices and chocolate, or books. There are actually way more books than foodstuff, but the combination is delightful to peruse. The Market Bookstore has an impressive collection of books in every category, ranging from children’s books to books on philosophy, history, and religion. Most of the collection are second hand and in Portuguese but they do have books in other languages as well. Fun fact, the book shelves in the Market Bookstore are made up of old Fruit Boxes!
Livraria Artes & Letras
Enjoy the vibe and original letter-press art at Artes & Letras Bookshop.
Make a slight detour off the Rua Direita and you’ll find a massive bookstore called Artes & Letras (Arts and Letters). Housed in a former winery, this atmospheric bookstore that specializes in rare and antique books is a total vibe. Owned by a husband and wife team who got priced out of Lisbon after twenty years of book selling in the capital, Artes & Letras is packed with a fascinating collection of books in multiple languages, artifacts and antiques from around the world, persian rugs on the floor, and cozy leather reading chairs where one can just take it all in and feel intelligent. Bonus, Artes & Letras also serves drinks, both hot and cold, including the ubiquitous ginja and a local hard cider that comes in a variety of fruit flavors.
I enjoyed speaking to Inez, the co-owner of the shop who is also a letter-press artist. Her literary themed hand made, and hand-printed notebooks, post cards and book marks are for sale in the shop (and you’ll also find them in other bookshops around the city as well) and make excellent gifts for any literary lover in your life. I, of course, bought one of her notebooks as my souvenir from Óbidos. If you’re into letter-press art, Inez has a studio right below the book shop, also called Artes & Letras, where you can watch her work, - when she’s not selling books – and purchase some of her lovely items.
Livraria Santiago
The Livraria Santiago is a holy shrine to the Book.
Meanwhile, on the other end of Rua Direita, inside the former Igreja de Santiago (Church of Santiago), originally built in 1186, but rebuilt in 1765 after the original structure was destroyed by two earthquakes, sits the holy grail of bookstores in Óbidos. The Livraria Santioago is the largest bookstore in Óbidos and is the only bookstore in this village that actually specializes in new books instead of second-hand ones. Be clear, the Livraria de Santiago’s incredible selection of books is mostly in Portuguese, as it should be, but they do stock a generous selection of books in English, a combination of literary classics and new releases. I was pleased to find a nice selection of books in English by Black authors in their classics section, including Toni Morrison, Nella Larsen, and Chester Himes. And in their used English book section, I was delighted to put my hands on the definitive biography of Richard Wright. That was a major win for me.
In addition to simply browsing their diverse selection of titles, including a lovely selection of children’s books, what I loved the most about the Livraria Santiago bookstore is their cheeky embrace of the fact that they are housed in a former house of worship. The altar still stands in the back of the store, but instead of the Bible or a statue of Jesus on display, they have a massive book on the life of Leonardo Da Vinci opened to the page of his famous drawing of the Vitruvian Man. I think it is meant to say that here, in this bookstore, we worship knowledge.
Casa de Saramago
Although it is not a bookstore, one would be remiss not to make a stop in the Casa de Saramago. Despite the name, the Casa de Saramago is not a museum for Portugal’s most famous literary icon, Jose Saramgo, rather it is the village library that has been dedicated to Saramago’s memory. Even if you’re not interested in browsing their minimalist collection -where they do have some books in English - the three-story building is absolutely gorgeous and offers plenty of places to sit and read, write, or create in comfort. There is even a terrace with a seating area that overlooks the main plaza of Óbidos, where visitors can sit and enjoy the view. And there’s more. I discovered a grassy roof deck with even more places to take in the literary atmosphere. The Casa de Saramago was an unexpected literary treasure in Óbidos.
The Literary Man Hotel - The Largest Book Hotel in the World
This way to The Literary Man Hotel.
The Literary Man hotel is an incredible ode to the book. A former convent, the hotel now houses 30 guest rooms, a restaurant, and a gin bar all with bookish themes. But the best part is that every inch of the hotel is filled with books. According to the receptionist I spoke with, their collection of books ranges between 75 -80,000. I’m talking floor-to-ceiling bookshelves in the lobby, hallways, an impressive collection in the Book and Cook restaurant and in each individual guest room. Most of the books are in English, but there is a substantial offering in Portuguese, French, German and other languages as well.
In addition to books, the décor in the hotel leans towards all things literary with antique typewriters popping up in passageways, and posters of literary giants hanging from the walls. The original footprint and delightful details from the building’s past as a convent remain, although the interior upgrades gives the hotel an industrial feeling with lots of cement floors, naked wood and a minimalist aesthetic.
Some lucky patron at the Literary Man Hotel will find a copy of Hair Story!
Everything about the Literary Man screams literature lover and it would take days to peruse all of the books on their bookshelves. Most of them are popular paperbacks – I lost count of the number of John Grisham and Stephanie Meyer titles I saw – but it’s still exciting to look for hidden gems. Case in point, I was delighted to discover a copy of Toni Morrison’s Sula and Andrea Levy’s Small Island on the top shelf of the bookcase in my hotel room. All the books are for sale and you can donate books to the collection as well. Hint: Some lucky guest might find a copy of Hair Story on the shelves of the Literary Man Hotel.
Literary Festivals in Óbidos
The Folio International Literary Festival
As mentioned, Óbidos has now become a popular day-trip destination for tourists coming from Lisbon. And you can definitely see all the things in this cute little village in a a couple of hours. And while the literary claim to fame can feel a bit performative– some shops simply use books as prop and window dressing (see the Biblioteca Conserva, a store selling canned fish and sardines in a library setting) it is still a beautiful, walkable little village with enough to explore and see that merits a visit.
But, if you are going to Obidos to have a true literary experience, I would try to plan your trip around the Folio International Literary festival. In 2023, the festival will run from October 12 – 22. From the website: “The Folio International Literary Festival has become one of the main literary events in Portugal…Among the various initiatives, visitors will find exhibitions, concerts, masterclasses, book presentations, conferences, seminars, performances, author sessions, film cycles, among many other activities.”
Latitudes: The Liteary and Travel Event
If October doesn’t work for you, there is another literary festival in Óbidos that usually runs in the spring in March or April that is themed around travel. The Latitudes Festival launched only a few years ago, but it sounds absolutely delightful. From the website: “Latitudes is a literary event, dedicated to travel and travelers, which over the years has become a safe haven for everyone who arrives from near or far, bringing stories to tell in their luggage.”
So, if you really want to experience the full experience of Obidos as a literary city, it would probably be best to come during one of the two literary festivals mentioned above. The whole city gets involved, with festival activities happening in bookstores, restaurants and even some some churches. The literary festivals truly take over the city.
DIY Writing Retreat in Óbidos
Another reason you might want to visit Óbidos is if you’re looking for a place to host your own private DIY writing retreat. It’s the perfect place to come to read or write in a picturesque setting where you can also find delicious food and gorgeous views of rolling green hills and medieval architecture. It’s a completely walkable city, accessible by public transportation, plus, you can just feel the literary energy in the air. In addition to the Literary Man Hotel, I discovered plenty of adorable hostels, upscale hotels, and short-term apartments that would make for a delightful place to snuggle up and write. In fact, for a town with a population of of only 3,000 there were a surprising amount of tourist accommodations.
Plan Your Trip to Óbidos
How to Get from Lisbon to Óbidos
If you don’t have a car, the fastest and easiest way to get to Óbidos from Lisbon, is to catch a bus from the Campo Grande bus station. The ride is just about an hour and cost 8.50 Euros, and you can pay for your ticket right on the bus. There seems to be a bus leaving the station at least one an hour and a little more frequently during rush hours. The best thing is, there is only stop before Óbidos, so it’s a pretty direct ride. Please note, there are two terminals at the Campo Grande station and the busses for Óbidos depart from terminal two. I didn’t see an actual building, just the busses parked and ready to go. I simply asked the drivers which one was going to Óbidos and found the right bus. The final stop on that route is the town of Caldas da Rainha, so the bus might say that on the outside. The bus company is Rodoviaria Do Oeste and has a green and blue logo. Check the Rodoviaria website for route information. Also, be aware that the Campo Grande bus station is nowhere near downtown Lisbon. It is far out from the city near the stadium, and only a few minutes from the airport. So, plan accordingly.
Where to Eat
There are many restaurant options in Óbidos. The village has adequately prepared for the regular onslaught of tourists. Most of the restaurants serve a variety of typical Portuguese cuisine but there are a couple of options for people who might want something different. Besides the exquisite options for dinner at the restaurant inside the The Literary Man hotel, which is open to the public, I enjoyed two different restaurants located in the patio outside the Livarria de Artes and Letras. One was a simple pizza restaurant, Á Janela, that serves personal wood fired pizzas on homemade sourdough crust. Simple toppings, and absolutely delicious. The other I tried for breakfast, was called Avocado and they serve breakfast, brunch and light lunch fare all day. Many of their options are vegan and vegetarian friendly. You can also find plenty of sardines, gelato, and egg custard tarts throughout the town. And chocolate. Lots of chocolate.
Get Lit in Óbidos
I hope I have convinced you to visit the city of Óbidos. If you’re going to be in Lisbon, it’s a no-brainer to hop on a bus and go visit for a day, or overnight. It’s definitely worth the trip. And if you’re looking for other literary itineraries in Europe, check out my posts on The Hague and Madrid. Happy traveling!